Terry and Lily did not only offer us a warm and dry shelter as well as a wonderful meal, they also taught us a lot about a new way of building houses more ecologically. He showed us examples of Straw bale or Mud houses, ‘green’ houses and all the benefits that come with it (energy efficient, ecological, cheaper, stronger, personalized).
It was very nice to see his passion for the subject and definitely had made us think about any future house we might build…
It was hard to leave Tracy & Sylvester as we had felt so much at home in their place, but we had to hit the road, winter was catching up…
We managed to delay ourselves until about 16.00 in Whitehorse and then left in a terrible downpour, and as the first few km were steep uphill to get out of the valley, we were feeling down. But the sky stopped dumping water on us and soon we found ourselves going up and down over rolling hills besides more Wonderful Lakes. We had set ourselves a new goal: get to Scott’s Anarchy Farm! We had met Scott in the Potlatch (see previous post here) and he had invited us to visit him when we would pass.
Unfortunately he was not in the Greenhouse: a big plastic covered collection of wonderful smelling flowers and vegetables. We waited outside for some moments and cycled around in the area, but as we did not had the directions to their house, we returned to the greenhouse. The rain started again, and we decided to sleep inside the greenhouse, setting up our inner tent only. It was by far the best smelling campsite on our entire trip.
In the middle of the night we heard some noises and Scott came in. He did not seem to surprised to see us sleeping in the middle of hundreds of flowers and added one more log to the slow burning woodstove, so the temperature stayed above freezing.
The next morning he came back with coffee. A few weeks later he sent us a great poem, please check it out here on his 1000 Americans page. We stayed close to the warm fire all morning and only after noon, we packed our tent and continued riding through the rainy Yukon lake District. The wind was friendly and even with our late starts we did over 100 km, ending up late at a deserted state campground, close to Teslin lake.
August 28 – 30: through the lake District with Mate & tortas
We had promised ourselves to start earlier, and actually managed to get on our bikes before 8 ‘o clock! We arrived quickly at the small place of Teslin, where we spend several hours in the library. We were surprised at the many small libraries we met, there is so much great stuff to see and hear, most offer Internet access and the ladies running them are without exception all nice and friendly, so support your local Library and get your kids to read!
We spend some time in the Teslin Motel, working on our reports and chatting with Heather, who was on her way North, on a big BMW motorbike (see her picture here). We fixed her iPhone for her and chatted with this lovely woman, who was in great spirit.. Do not pass the Motel without seeing the hidden gem: a small museum with stuffed animals in the gift shop (some of Ivana’s images are on Flickr here). This sounds much worse than it is, they have done a wonderful job. Oh, and the Wifi is free at the Motel
Ivana managed to cross the scary and long bridge, which had a steel bottom, through which you could see water below. As with most rivers, we had to climb a steep hill to get out of the valley it had created, but during the climb a van stopped. Read more
We met Scott at the Potlatch in Champagne (see previous post here). He has a big greenhouse and grows some organic food as well; the place is called the Anarchy Farm and he is as relaxed as the name implies.
Scott was great, even when he found us in the middle of the night sleeping in his greenhouse
A few weeks later, he sent us the following wonderful poem. If the Greenhouse business doesn’t work, a new career is waiting. Thanks Scott, people like you make our trip so special!
Hola Ivana and Harry K.
Off you went into our boreal summer
a bit wet you seemed
but shedding water like loons in the rain
Perhaps its your slow drift south
that drags down the cold from the north
and brings the geese to the fields
Run away, run away
urges our saner side
fly with the birds, south
But egos prevail
and we hunker in
as autumn changes colours
Stockholm syndrome with the weather
rationalized reasons to stay
as water freezes, falls from the air
And we remain, human outposts
in hostile realms, inuit, dene, and
pale intruders too enrapt to go
Too long in gaia’s breast
to survive a concrete dream
in steel wrapped hives
So blessings to haired and furred and feathered friends
on perilous journies to the sun
and welcomes waiting come spring
Stay we will amidst the ‘standing people’
and mourn the crack of frozen sap
at forty plus below
Spin those wheels, shed your sweat
on downhill coasts, and
fear those diesel dooms
So chase summer down the road you two
to flatlands flee, boreal lands depart
strange winds in yankee lands await . . .